A Walk through Lavapiés

Plaza de Lavapiés

Lavapiés is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Madrid. It was a Jewish and Moorish quarter outside the city walls until the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492. The name literally means "wash feet", and seems to refer to the ritual washing of one's feet before entering the temple, possibly in the fountain in Plaza de Lavapiés.

It has long been a neglected area of the city. But now it's a multicultural, bohemian neighbourhood full of bars, ethnic restaurants, art galleries, cafés and shops. Upon entering you'll find yourself surrounded by a myriad of different ethnic groups and that's the enchantment of this neighborhood.

Corrala

One building that catches the community spirit of Lavapiés is La Corrala, a tenement block, with long communal balconies built around a central courtyard. Few of these are still standing.

Eventhough the neighborhood seems a little run down and gritty, there are some interesting buildings to make your walk worthwhile. One example is the Pious Schools' Church. It was almost destroyed during the Civil War, but now holds a library and one of the best kept secrets in Madrid: a wonderful terrace on top to check out the great views.

Valle-Inclan Theatre

Following Goya's Steps in Madrid... San Isidro

Today is San Isidro's feast, Madrid's patron saint. Thousands of people take part in a pilgrimage to the shrine of the Saint, a small hermitage near the Vicente Calderon Stadium. San Isidro supposedly worked here as a laborer tending his master's fields. One of the many miracles he performed was striking the ground with his staff to let a crystal clear spring water flow from the ground. Tradition dictates that today everyone must drink from this fountain, which has healing powers. 

San Isidro's fountain

The place to see this feast in all its splendor is the Pradera of San Isidro, a meadow near the banks of the Manzanares River which is now a public park. People then enjoy a picnic, where a variety of food stalls offer all the typical dishes of Madrid.

You can find Goya's statue in the spot where it's said he painted two of his most famous paintings about this feast: "The Meadow of San Isidro" and "The Hermitage of San Isidro" both found at El Prado Museum. If you use your imagination and get rid of the modern buildings, the view from the meadow is almost the same as when Goya painted these pictures.

Books in Freedom

Whenever I visit a new city, I check out what's to do for free. Madrid is no exception. As most big cities go, it's packed with these kind of activities. But while I was visiting the Chamberi district, I happened to run into a unique free place. Its name is Libros Libres (Books in Freedom) and its put in place a really innovative concept, or is it? It gives out books for free.

With the crisis looming over our heads, it's surprising that a bookstore wants to give away books, but that's the way it works. The concept is pure solidarity and the process is very simple. You browse, take as many books as you want at no cost, or pay whatever you feel like or leave books of your own. That's it!

In this dreary economic climate we are living in, isn't it just great that something so simple as books and reading could hold the key to a better and more educated world? It's certainly an antidote for the crisis! Things that make you go hmm...

Libros Libres is located at Covarrubias 7 in the Chamberi District.

Libreria Libros Libres